Trastevere — 'across the Tiber' in Latin — is the most beautiful and most alive neighbourhood in Rome. Medieval alleys, ochre buildings, the finest early Christian basilica in the city, hidden Caravaggio churches, and the best restaurants in Rome tucked into streets that feel genuinely unchanged since the 17th century. This is the complete guide to exploring it properly.
The most beautiful early Christian basilica in Rome — and one of the most beautiful buildings in Italy. Built in the 4th century on the site where, according to legend, oil spontaneously flowed from the ground on the night of the birth of Christ. The 12th-century golden mosaics in the apse are extraordinary. Free entry; open daily.
The heart of Trastevere — a perfect medieval piazza with the basilica on one side, a 17th-century fountain in the centre, and café tables on every side. At 10pm on a summer evening, the fountain is surrounded by locals, students, and travellers in equal measure. One of the most beautiful urban spaces in Rome.
The long straight road running along the river side of Trastevere contains two extraordinary addresses: the Villa Farnesina (1508–1511, with Raphael frescoes inside, open to visitors) and the Palazzo Corsini. The street itself has the atmosphere of an earlier Rome — quiet, wide, and almost completely tourist-free.
One of the most rewarding hidden churches in Trastevere — Santa Cecilia contains the tomb of the patron saint of music (executed 230 AD), a 9th-century crypt, and the extraordinary Lost Judgment fresco by Pietro Cavallini (1293) — one of the most beautiful frescoes in Rome that almost nobody knows about. Arrive before 11am.
The finest trattoria in Trastevere — and one of the finest in Rome. Da Enzo al 29 has been cooking Roman food since 1935: cacio e pepe, carciofi alla romana, tiramisù made to order. The room has 30 seats and books out every night. Reserve at least a week in advance. The lunch sitting on Saturday is slightly easier to book.
The definitive supplì in Trastevere — Rome's signature street food done perfectly. The deep-fried rice ball with mozzarella inside is crispy, savoury, and extraordinary when eaten standing on the pavement immediately after it comes out of the oil. The tomato version is classic; the cacio e pepe version is modern and excellent.
The most beautiful and least-known piazza in Trastevere — a small medieval square with a Roman tower, a tiny 5th-century church, and one of the most atmospheric bars in the neighbourhood for an early evening aperitivo. Almost no tourists find it; the locals who drink here guard it jealously.
The Gianicolo hill above Trastevere offers the finest panoramic view of Rome — better than the Pincian Hill, better than the Palatine, better than Castel Sant'Angelo. A 20-minute walk from Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere brings you to a terrace overlooking the entire city. Every day at noon, a cannon is fired from here — a tradition since 1847.
